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Carrying Tradition into the Future
Reviving a Rare Japanese Treasure - The Oshima Tsumugi Collection
Oshima Tsumugi × kay me
A New Chapter for Oshima Tsumugi
And the Women Who Carry Its Future Forward
The world-renowned Oshima Tsumugi, one of the three great textiles with a history of over 1,300 years, has now diminished to barely over 1%.
Since our founding in 2011, kay me has been dedicated to preserving Japanese craftsmanship.
To help carry this cultural heritage into the future, we are proud to unveil a special collection that brings the beauty of “Oshima Tsumugi into everyday wear”.
We will donate a portion of the proceeds to support the recruitment and training of Oshima Tsumugi artisans.
Dresses Expressing Traditional Oshima Tsumugi Motifs
Through Print Dyeing
Oshima Tsumugi Design Stretch Chiffon:
Knee-Length Mermaid Dress
Oshima Tsumugi Design Stretch Jersey:
Long Marilyn Dress
Oshima Tsumugi Design Stretch Chiffon:
Mid-Length Semi-Mermaid Dress
Oshima Tsumugi Design Stretch Jersey:
Marilyn Dress
Oshima Tsumugi Design Stretch Georgette:
Shirt Dress
A Rare Collaboration
Using Authentic Oshima Tsumugi Fabric
Authentic Oshima Tsumugi:
Belt（Mud Akina Bara）
Authentic Oshima Tsumugi:
Stretch Georgette Shirt with Bow Tie（White Akina Bara）
Authentic Oshima Tsumugi:
Belt（Mud Tatsugo）
Authentic Oshima Tsumugi:
Stretch Georgette Shirt with Bow Tie（White Tatsugo）
kay me × Oshima Tsumugi
Limited Collection
Carrying Tradition Into the Future
Oshima Tsumugi, a textile from Amami Oshima with a 250-year history and recognized as one of the world’s three great textiles, once boasted an annual production of nearly 300,000 bolts in the 1970s. Today, that number has diminished to just one percent of its former scale - only around 2,000 bolts a year. As occasions to wear kimono have declined, this traditional craft - requiring 37 painstaking steps and more than a year to complete a single boltnow faces a critical moment. The aging of artisans and the shortage of successors have placed its future at risk.
Amami Oshima itself, despite enduring more than 250 years under the Satsuma domain and later under U.S. administration after the war, continued to spin the threads of Oshima Tsumugi. The people of the island protected their livelihood, culture, and pride through this textile.
Both the mud-dyeing method and the intricate tsumugi techniques have been passed down across generations - living proof of the island’s history and resilience.
How Oshima Tsumugi Is Created
A miraculous fabric
born from 37 processes over more than a year
Oshima Tsumugi goes through a painstakingly long process of 37 steps, with numerous artisans pouring their hearts into its creation. As a result, it takes anywhere from six months to over a year to complete a single roll of fabric.
Read more＞＞
Oshima Tsumugi goes through a painstakingly long process of 37 steps, with numerous artisans pouring their hearts into its creation. As a result, it takes anywhere from six months to over a year to complete a single roll of fabric.
Read more＞＞
Oshima Tsumugi goes through a painstakingly long process of 37 steps, with numerous artisans pouring their hearts into its creation. As a result, it takes anywhere from six months to over a year to complete a single roll of fabric.
Read more＞＞
Design Drafting (Step 1/37)
Creating the design blueprint is a highly advanced task requiring complete mastery of all 37 processes.The artisan must envision how each thread will move and absorb dye, and accurately predict the final outcome long before weaving begins.
Starch Application (Step 12/37)
To prevent the silk threads from fraying, they are fixed in place using a natural starch made from seaweed.
The process is highly sensitive to weather conditions and requires seasoned experience.
Kasuri Binding (Step 13/37)
A meticulous process of separating areas to be dyed from those left undyed, thread by thread, according to the design pattern. This advanced preparatory work, unique to Ōshima Tsumugi, forms the foundation for creating intricate patterns.
Kasuri Binding (Step 13/37)
The 'first weaving' for resist dyeing requires intense physical strength and concentration—truly demanding labor. This delicate technique, distinctive to Ōshima Tsumugi, is why it's said to be 'woven twice.'
Teechi Wood Dyeing & Mud Dyeing (Step 14/37)
Using Amami’s iron-rich mud and the tannins of the teechi tree, the yarns are repeatedly dyed and dried.The dyeing stage pushes the artisan’s physical strength and concentration to their limits and relies heavily on the power of nature.
Processing (Step 33/37)
After dyeing, the threads are carefully untied and aligned according to the original design.
At this stage, each color is added by hand, one hue at a time.
Weaving (Step 35/37)
The final weaving process is a feat of extraordinary craftsmanship.Every seven centimeters, the artisan manually adjusts each warp thread with a needle.By aligning warp and weft with absolute precision, the world’s most intricate kasuri patterns are brought to life.
Inspection (Step 37/37)
The woven fabric undergoes rigorous inspection by the cooperative, evaluated on as many as 24 criteria. Only those that meet all requirements are granted the name 'Hon-ba Amami Ōshima Tsumugi.'
Once woven, each bolt of fabric undergoes rigorous inspection by the Hon-ba Amami Ōshima Tsumugi Cooperative across 24 criteria, including length, width, kasuri precision, color uniformity, and weaving flaws. Only then is it recognized as Hon-ba Amami Ōshima Tsumugi, a Traditional Craft designated by the Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry.
Traditional Motifs Carried by Oshima Tsumugi
Intricate classical patterns that have reflected nature and daily life for more than 250 years
Mud Tatsugo Pattern
It is said that this motif was created in the late Edo period in present-day Tatsugo Town, when the Satsuma domain requested a textile that symbolized Amami.
The design is inspired by a habu snake gliding across the leaves of a cycad under the moonlight - representing vitality, rebirth, and prosperity.
The deep black-brown hue, produced through Amami’s mud and teechi wood, reflects both the blessings of nature and the prayers of the artisans.
- For those who live with strength and move forward with quiet resolve
White Tatsugo Pattern
A rare piece woven in white Oshima using the traditional Tatsugo motif. Because white threads reflect light sharply, determining the exact placement of the pattern requires extraordinary concentration and refined skill.
While mud-dyed Tatsugo embodies the “beauty of shadow,”
white Tatsugo expresses the “beauty of light”—symbolizing purification, renewal, and new beginnings. It brings a fresh breath of modernity to this time-honored design.
- For those who carry inner calm and shine with their own light
Mud Akina Bara Pattern
Believed to have originated during the Ryukyu-era administration in the coastal Akina district, this motif reflects the woven pattern of sanbara - a basket used in everyday life.
“Bara” means “basket” in the Amami dialect.
Born from the tools that supported daily living, the design carries respect for labor and the quiet beauty of hands that work.
Its intersecting lines resemble a net, symbolizing connections and the invitation of good fortune.
- For those who transform the warmth of their hands into graceful living
White Akina Bara Pattern
A rare interpretation of the Akina Bara motif woven in white Oshima.
Because white threads reflect light vividly, identifying the precise placement of the pattern requires extreme focus and sensory acuity.
In contrast to the depth of Mud Akina Bara, White Akina Bara conveys the rhythm of wind and light—a poised, luminous beauty.
White symbolizes clarity, harmony, and new encounters, gently linking people and time.
- For those who weave connections softly, like light itself
Koichimatsu Pattern
A geometric pattern formed by tiny, evenly aligned squares.
Its name originates from Edo-period kabuki actor Sanogawa Ichimatsu, who made the motif famous through his costumes.
In Oshima, the grid is woven in an even finer arrangement, symbolizing individuality within order.
The uninterrupted continuation of squares represents eternity, harmony, stability, and prosperity - a motif wishing for unbroken good relationships and lasting success.
- For women who maintain their rhythm and keep moving forward in any circumstance
White Wave Pattern
A flowing wave pattern inspired by the waves of Amami’s seas - waters that were both a source of livelihood and, at times, a test of resilience.
Islanders saw the waves as symbols of nature’s power and the rhythm of renewal, entrusting their beauty to the craft of tsumugi.
White Wave expresses the endless flow of life. It is a auspicious motif that invites the strength to overcome adversity, fresh challenges, and the return of good fortune - just as waves always return to the shore.
- For women who embrace new challenges and cross each wave with grac
Wearing the Beauty of Tradition
Art for Modern Women to Wear in Daily Life
Dresses Expressing Traditional Oshima Tsumugi Motifs Through Print Dyeing
Oshima Tsumugi Design Stretch Chiffon:
Knee-Length Mermaid Dress
A Precious Collaboration Using Authentic Oshima Tsumugi Fabric
Authentic Oshima Tsumugi:
Belt（Mud Akina Bara Pattern）
Authentic Oshima Tsumugi:
Stretch Georgette Shirt with Bow Tie
（White Akina Bara Pattern）
Tradition in the Palm of Your Hand A Card Case That Carries the Spirit of Artisan Craftsmanship
Carrying Tradition Into the Future
Artisan Training Charity Project
Mr. Keisuke Maeda
Executive Managing Director
Amami Oshima Tsumugi Cooperative Association
Using the rare materials and traditional motifs provided by the Amami Oshima Tsumugi Cooperative Association,
kay me has reinterpreted Oshima Tsumugi as everyday wear for modern women.
By transforming these traditional designs and precious textiles into contemporary clothing,
we hope to carry this heritage forward - together with the stories of women around the world who continue to challenge themselves.
A portion of sales from this collection will be donated to the Cooperative’s artisan training program,
as part of our charity initiative to support the future of Oshima Tsumugi.
Weaving Is a Way of Shaping the Future
A Young Weaver Challenging
the Highest Level of the Craft: “White Oshima”
Sarasa Taira is a young weaver taking on the challenge of carrying this tradition forward. Born in Amami, she moved to Tokyo before rediscovering the true value of Oshima Tsumugi. With that realization, she returned home and began her path as an artisan.
Read more＞＞
Taking on the Highest Level of Difficulty: White Oshima
Today, only a few artisans are able to weave white Oshima, known for being the most technically demanding form of the textile.
White threads reflect light sharply, requiring extreme concentration to determine the precise placement of patterns.
She adjusts her work under LED lighting, continuing to face each thread with her naked eyes and unwavering focus.
Proud Handwork, Yet Inadequate Compensation
The craft of tsumugi demands pride and commitment—qualities essential for continuing this work.
Yet behind this dedication lies a steep financial barrier for younger generations.
Even so, she sits at the loom each day, determined not to let this tradition fade.
Passing Tradition to the Next Generation
Weaving offers a path where women can work in a way that feels true to themselves.
Because the craft requires strong eyesight, stamina, and discipline, the presence of younger artisans is essential.
Her vision of the future is one where young people begin training early and eventually become those who carry the tradition forward.
Imagining a Future Beyond the Kimono
She imagines a future where Oshima Tsumugi evolves beyond kimono—
reborn as bags, wallets, and everyday items that accompany people in modern life.
By offering new forms, she hopes more people will experience the beauty of Oshima Tsumugi.
To the Women Who Continue to Challenge Themselves, Wrapped in Oshima Tsumugi
She sees hope in the idea of Oshima Tsumugi becoming something that working women can wear in daily life.
“With every person who wears this tradition, may their next step be supported,” she says.
Holding that hope close, she continues weaving quietly—threads of fabric, and threads of the future.
Her sincere words carried a powerful sense of determination to connect this tradition to tomorrow. Oshima Tsumugi is not a relic of the past—it is a living strength that supports the future. May this challenge inspire courage in the next generation of artisans.
kay me Founder
Junko Kemi
Carrying Oshima Tsumugi
Into the Future
Voices From Supporters Who Sustain This Tradition
Shohei Yasuda
Mayor of Amami City
I am truly delighted that Oshima Tsumugi, one of Amami’s most treasured traditional industries, is finding new value through its encounter with the lives of modern women. May this initiative help carry our culture forward and inspire hope for the next generation.
Yasunori Takeda
Mayor of Tatsugo Town
Oshima Tsumugi is the pride of Tatsugo and a reflection of the island’s spirit itself. I am grateful that, through this project, our tradition is receiving new life and taking flight into the world.
Shinya Kunimatsu
Branch Manager, Minami-Kyushu Branch
Development Bank of Japan (DBJ)
The collection born from this project carries the passion of everyone who is working to preserve the traditional craft of Oshima Tsumugi. I sincerely hope that this initiative will not end as a one-time event, but will grow into a long-term endeavor that continues to enrich both the artisans and the community.
Fumiyo Harada
Senior Managing Executive Officer
Development Bank of Japan (DBJ)
Oshima Tsumugi is a cultural treasure of the region, and seeing it resonate with the challenges and aspirations of today’s women offers a vision for a more sustainable culture and society. I hope this initiative becomes a meaningful step forward—supporting both women’s empowerment and the continuation of this important traditional industry.
The Challenge of Design
Reimagining Traditional Beauty
Through kay me Craftsmanship
How can we express the delicate,
intricate patterns of Oshima Tsumugi using modern stretch fabrics?
This challenge became a dialogue between tradition and innovation -
a pursuit in which craftsmanship of the past met the techniques of the present.
Part I
Print Technology That Faithfully Captures the Fineness of the Weave
Oshima Tsumugi is originally created by stretching extraordinarily thin silk threads as warp and weft, then weaving them together through painstaking, precise handwork. To express that breath of the weave without diminishing its delicacy, we entrusted the printing and dyeing to a Kyo-Yuzen atelier in Kameoka, Kyoto. When the finished fabric was revealed, both the Mayor of Tatsugō and the Mayor of Amami remarked, “It looks just like authentic Oshima Tsumugi.”
Part 2
Bringing Authentic Oshima Tsumugi Silk into Everyday Life
Using true Oshima Tsumugi is an expression of respect for tradition— and also a bold technical challenge. Its refined silk texture is delicate and vulnerable to friction, creating a significant barrier for daily use. To preserve its beauty while making it last for years to come,our team experimented again and again, ultimately developing a unique protective coating. Together with artisans, we shaped a new idea of tradition— craft that can live gently in everyday life.
Part 3
Reimagining Traditional Beauty
as Everyday Wear
Oshima Tsumugi, long cherished as a classical kimono textile, has now been transformed into garments for daily life. This design process required a careful balance: adding freshness without disturbing the integrity of tradition. The resulting pieces feel at home in professional settings and carry confidence onto international stages— dresses that tell a story each time they are worn.
“Be the Art, Be the Ambition.”
From Amami, We Weave Toward the Future
Each motif of Oshima Tsumugi carries the prayers and hopes of the people
who live with this tradition.
Within its geometric forms lies the rhythm of nature;
within its countless tiny intersections, the quiet intentions of those who weave it.
At kay me, we are honored to carry this “design of prayers” into the present—
transforming it into pieces that modern women can wear in their everyday lives.
From Amami, we weave toward the future.
kay me will continue to support everyone who chooses to challenge themselves and step forward.